SURPRISES IN SOUTHEND…a follow up

A few months ago I shared some photos and comments about the cliffside gardens at Southend, and asked if anyone knew any more about them.  Earlier this week I was sent a links to some old movie footage [thanks Donna] which should bring back memories of seaside holidays for many of us. Having watched it I just had to search for some more.

The first is a 1953 promotional film “The Best Place Under The Sun” which includes some shots of the gardens…

the second is  a potted history of Southend pier  but it also includes some images of the gardens in Victorian prints.

and next there are a few scenes from the 1970s, including some shots of Peter Pan’s Playground

and finally enjoy  the 1938 London pensioners outing to Southend…and the dancing in the seafront gardens!   Just the sort of thing I can see my grandparents and great aunts and uncles having done – although I can’t quite picture my gran in one of those wonderful hats – or showing her knees!  What a pity there was no sound recording.

More comments and links on Southend or any other posts would be very welcome.

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John Claudius Loudon…. and Greenhouse Technology

Its been a while since I wrote my last piece on Humphry Repton and I was thinking about a follow-up on the Picturesque when into my inbox  came a new post from Matthew Beckett’s excellent blog The Country Seat covering just that.   I’m not sure its  the done thing to recommend  a’rival’ blog but I’m going to anyway!  Take a look at: http://thecountryseat.org.uk/2014/05/26/purchasing-the-picturesque-hampton-court-and-lasborough-park-for-sale/

John Claudius Loudon, unknown artist, National Portrait Gallery

John Claudius Loudon, unknown artist, National Portrait Gallery

So instead I’m going to follow up Repton in a different way over the next couple of posts, by looking at some aspects of the man who assumed his mantle as the leading garden designer and theorist of the early 19thc: John Claudius Loudon.

Whilst  Repton had been the most prolific garden writer of the 18thc with a whole string of books on the theory and practice of landscape gardening, he was a mere childish scribbler when compared to Loudon who wrote encyclopedic tomes containing millions of words and thousands of illustrations.

Born in Scotland in 1783  you get some idea of what sort of man he was from a journal entry quoted by his wife later in his biography:  “I am now twenty years of age, and perhaps a third part of my life has passed away, and yet what have I done to benefit my fellow-men?”  Incidentally, we have a brief biography of Loudon on our database:

http://www.parksandgardens.org/places-and-people/person/847

He started writing young. His first works Observations on the Formation and Management of Useful and Ornamental Plantations    and Hints respecting the manner of laying out the grounds of the public squares in London’  were published in 1804 soon after he arrived in London where he was to live for the rest of his life.   On the title page of Observations was a quote from Francis Bacon which sums up Loudon’s approach to life and his work:  ‘Knowledge is Power’.

Loudon aimed to spread knowledge as widely as possible and he wrote seemingly ceaselessly all his life.  Of course this would all have been done in long hand…. the sheer physicality of the task [especially when you see the size of even one of his myriad publications] is mind-boggling.  In itself this would have been remarkable but it was all the more so since his right arm had to be amputated in 1825 following a botched operation.

Not only did he write but he also edited a whole range of periodicals, ranging from The Gardener’s Magazine and later The Gardener’s Gazette, to  The Magazine of Natural History and The Architectural Magazine.   Even the task of reading his work is daunting simply because of the size and scale of the undertaking.  Most of his books can be read on-line or are available as free downloads, and a good place to start is: http://onlinebooks.library.upenn.edu/webbin/book/lookupname?key=Loudon%2C%20J.%20C.%20(John%20Claudius)%2C%201783-1843

And if this was not enough he was an artist, exhibiting at the Royal Academy in 1804 and being elected to the Royal Society of Arts, the following year at the age of just 22.

from A Short Treatise on Several Improvements, Recently Made in Hot-houses

from A Short Treatise on Several Improvements, Recently Made in Hot-houses

More importantly he was also a  designer and inventor. Fascinated by greenhouse technology he experimented with the layout and design of glass roofs and walls to maximise potential light. In 1805, at the age of just 22,  he published the 2 volumes of  A Short Treatise on Several Improvements Recently Made in Hot-Houses which includes an account of a new patented ‘Loudon’s hothouse furnace’.

This new invention was easily obtainable ‘for just £2.10s’ at ‘the Edinburgh Foundry or Mr Dalziel’s (cabinet makers), Chapel Street, London, on enquiring for Loudon’s Improved Hothouse Furnace, which words are printed upon the door of the furnace. The improved ash-pit door, made according to the figure given in plate I. and the grate, are had along the above furnace, and are included in with the price’.   John Claudius sounded as if he was a typical Victorian entrepreneur but sadly he was anything but that.

The following year saw  a two-volume 600 page Treatise on Forming, Improving, and Managing Country Residences  which included a section on the design of pineapple houses.

loudon.treatise.pinehouse

He enlarged on this in 1823 in  The Different Modes of Cultivating the Pine-Apple.

Loudon’s most significant invention was a method of making glazing bars in wrought iron that could be made in curvilinear sections. The big breakthrough was to make them flexible enough to be bent in any direction without reducing their strength.  Suddenly curvilinear or even conical glazing was possible and the great age of glasshouses and conservatories was born.

from Loudon's Remarks on the Construction of Hothouses, published in London in 1817.

from Loudon’s Remarks on the Construction of Hothouses, 1817.

 

from Loudon's Remarks on the Construction of Hothouses, published in London in 1817.

from Loudon’s Remarks on the Construction of Hothouses, 1817.

from Loudon's Remarks on the Construction of Hothouses, published in London in 1817.

from Loudon’s Remarks on the Construction of Hothouses,  1817.

 

 

from Loudon's Remarks on the Construction of Hothouses, published in London in 1817.

from Loudon’s Remarks on the Construction of Hothouses, 1817.

This led to the publication of  Remarks on the Construction of Hot-Houses in 1817 and in 1818 A Comparative View of the Common and Curvilinear Mode of Roofing Hot-Houses and Sketches of Curvilinear Hot-Houses.

 

 

 

 

 

 

from Loudon's Remarks on the Construction of Hothouses, published in London in 1817.

from Loudon’s Remarks on the Construction of Hothouses, 1817.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Unfortunately he sold the idea for the glazing bar  to  Messrs W. and D. Bailey of Holborn at an early stage.  They patented it in 1818 and so Loudon did not reap any financial reward from his invention, which is a pity since he was, despite all his publication, on the edge of bankruptcy much of his life.

from Loudon's Remarks on the Construction of Hothouses, published in London in 1817.

from Loudon’s Remarks on the Construction of Hothouses,  1817.

Loudon collaborated with Baileys on a number of glasshouses in the following years. including Felton Park in Northumberland.  Unfortunately we don’t have an entry on our database for Felton so if anyone knows anything about it please get in touch.  A recent report by English Heritage suggests that the greenhouse there, to a design by Loudon,  was supplied in kit form, then erected on site by Baileys but glazed by one of the many local glass manufacturers. A copy of the report can be downloaded at :

Click to access 005_2013WEB.pdf

Unoccupied greenhouse of circa 1830 that incorporates an C18 garden wall. In very bad condition. English Heritage offered a grant in August 2011 to allow a repair scheme to be drawn up. Funding to allow repairs to be undertaken is being explored. http://risk.english-heritage.org.uk/register.aspx?id=46382&rt=1&pn=2&st=a&ua=Northumberland+(UA)&ctype=all&crit=

Greenhouse at Felton Park, Northumberland which incorporates an C18 garden wall. 
http://risk.english-heritage.org.uk/register.aspx?id=46382&rt=1&pn=2&st=a&ua=Northumberland+(UA)&ctype=all&crit=

Later in 1824 Loudon published  The Green-House Companion advising readers on what plants to grow in their new structures, because of course, ‘the management of plants in a free-house requires a higher degree of knowledge than is called for in the management of the open garden…and the object of the Green-House Companion is to supply what is wanting in that respect.’  Loudon also published a large number of detailed plant reference books often using information supplied by John Lindley, secretary of the Horticultural Society of London, and the first professor of botany at London University. Loudon.GreenComp1

 

In it, Loudon points out that ‘a greenhouse which fifty years ago was a luxury not often to be met with, is now become an appendage to every villa, and to many town residences…and which mankind recognises as a mark of elegant and refined enjoyment.’

He lived up to his claims when designing a new house for himself, and his  villa at 3 Porchester Terrace, Bayswater, [which now has a blue plaque] has an impressive glass domed entrance /conservatory which can still be seen.

Loudon's villa at 3 Porchester Terrace, Bayswater. http://www.knowledgeoflondon.com/loudon.html

Loudon’s villa at 3 Porchester Terrace, Bayswater.
http://www.knowledgeoflondon.com/loudon.html

 

 

 

 

 

Other glasshouses with Loudon connections include Bicton Park near Exmouth in Devon, which looks remarkably like the designs in Remarks on the Construction of Hothouses shown above. Probably built in the early 1820s the enormous dome is unsupported and the structure is held together by simple pressure and Loudon’s glazing bar. There is an interesting commentary on Bicton  by Candida Lycett Green at:

http://www.candidalycettgreen.co.uk/live/journalism/unwrecked-england-the-palm-house-bicton-devon/

and we have a database entry on Bicton and its history at:

http://www.parksandgardens.org/places-and-people/site/403/summary

Another of Loudon’s major projects was  his design for the layout of Birmingham Botanical Gardens which opened in 1832. He included plans for a massive three-storey circular glasshouse within a wrought-iron framework. Sadly this was rejected by the committee in favour of a simpler arrangement that was replaced later in the century.

gardens-1855_sm

The simpler design chosen instead of Loudon’s grand glasshouse, in a painting of 1855 http://www.birminghambotanicalgardens.org.uk/gardens/history/gardens-and-buildings

Loudon was dismissive of this:  ‘ This range, taking it altogether, is one of the worst in point of taste that we know of. The centre is semicircular in the front part of the plan, with a lofty dome, sur mounted by a second small dome, cupola, or glass turret, not unlike in form to those sometimes put up on the roofs of offices for pigeons, and totally unfit for plants ; unless we suppose that the spiry top of an Araucaria imbricata could be induced to rise into it; while the two sides or wings, joined to this curvilinear centre are common shed-roofed structures, not half the height of the dome. The want of harmony between the centre and the wings is most conspicuous, from whatever direction the whole may be viewed, and in our eyes it is most offensive….. we dislike exceedingly the idea of having our name associated in any degree, however slight, with a garden which, though it might have been one of the most perfect in its kind existing any where, and altogether unique in some of its arrangements, is now bungled, and never likely to reflect credit on any one connected with it.’  (Gardeners Magazine (August 1839, p.456).For more information on Loudon’s original design see Georg Kohlmaier, Houses of Glass: A Nineteenth Century Building Type (MIT Press, 1986).

And with that typically direct put-down I’ll leave Loudon for today, but will return soon with some of his ideas for another great Victorian institution – the cemetery.

from Loudon's Sketches for Curvilinear Hothouses, 1818 British Library

from Loudon’s Sketches for Curvilinear Hothouses, 1818
British Library

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Humphry Repton at Ashridge

Portrait Humphry Repton c1790 Miniature on Ivory by John Downman (1750-1824) Bridgeman Library

Portrait Humphry Repton c1790 Miniature on Ivory by John Downman (1750-1824) Bridgeman Library

A few weeks after Repton’s death  in 1818 an obituary appeared in the New Monthly Magazine which I thought, when I first read it, summed him up rather neatly: “Mr. Repton was an artist of elegant attainments and good taste, more calculated to follow than to lead, and more attached to the beautiful and pretty than to the grand style of art.”    It was probably written by his successor as the “great man” of English gardening, John Claudius Loudon, but on reflection I think it is a little dismissive of Repton’s achievements.

Repton was the first garden designer [as far as I am aware] to deliberately create new gardens in what he called the ‘ancient style’.   He combined these with more contemporary gardens in a new ‘Mixed Style’.    In many accounts of garden history  this approach  is attributed to John Claudius Loudon but as Tom Turner points out, Repton actually got there first.

For a more detailed discussion of the origins of the ‘Mixed Style’ see:   http://www.gardenvisit.com/history_theory/library_online_ebooks/tom_turner_english_garden_design/mixed_style_of_garden_design 

In his last book, published in 1816, and which rejoices in the lengthy title of Fragments on the theory and practice of landscape gardening: including some remarks on Grecian and Gothic architecture, collected from various manuscripts, in the possession of the different noblemen and gentlemen, for whose use they were originally written; the whole tending to establish fixed principles in the respective arts, Repton writes about his designs for  Ashridge in Hertfordshire.

The opening page of Fragment XXVII

Page 137, the opening page of Fragment XXVII in Fragments on the theory and practice of landscape gardening, 1816

Repton clearly regarded Ashridge as one of his greatest projects, although, to be honest, he wrote flatteringly in almost every Red Book of his appreciation for the property he was designing.

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Page 138 of Fragment XXVII, in Fragments on the theory and practice of landscape gardening, 1816

You can however see his disappointment with the banality of the setting of the grand new mansion, and that much had already been decided about the landscape before he was asked to be involved.  He could not even perform his usual trick of removing the park fence to improve the view since it had only just been put up at the express wish of the owner.

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Page 138 of Fragment XXVII, in Fragments on the theory and practice of landscape gardening, 1816

Instead he turned the restrictions into an advantage and arguing that

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Page 139 of Fragment XXVII, in Fragments on the theory and practice of landscape gardening, 1816

he suggested no less than 15 gardens of differing types. Five of them ‘belong to the modern type of pleasure-ground, but all the others are different: some sounding distinctly ‘historic’ in title at least.  ‘ As can be seen from his plan there were to be a sheltered arboretum of exotic trees, an American garden, a ‘cabinet de verdure’, an embroidered parterre, a mount garden and a garden for rock plants.

0235

Repton’s proposals for Ashridge from Fragments on the theory and practice of landscape gardening, 1816

Repton was criticized for this “novelty” but argued “there is no more  absurdity in collecting gardens of different styles, dates, characters, and dimensions, in the same enclosure, and placing the works of Raphael and Teniers in the same cabinet, or books sacred and profane in the same library.”   He was extremely proud of what he done calling it the  ‘child of my age and declining powers’, although sadly he died before all his designs were implemented. Many of his remaining ideas were adapted and completed later by Jeffrey Wyatville.

ashridge_fountain_photo_original

The Monks Barn, 1891 by Godfrey Bingley Leeds University Digital Library

Repton was clearly inspired by the monastic origins of Ashridge.  James Wyatt’s new house for the 7th Earl of Bridgewater was built over the monastic cellars whilst the late 14thc Monk’s Barn was remodelled and  converted into  a cloister.

Ashridge fountain [with the Rosary in the background] from Fragments on the theory and practice of landscape gardening, 1816

Design for a Conduit proposed at Ashridge, with distant view ofthe Roasry and Monks Garden,  from Fragments on the theory and practice of landscape gardening, 1816

Facing this  across a ‘winterwalk’ and ‘pomarium’ Repton suggested a Monks’ Garden with its clipped box hedges, ‘decorated with flowers in vases’ which  “ventured boldly to go back to those ancient trim gardens, which formerly delighted if the venerable inhabitants of this curious spot”.

Nearby he proposed a canopied ‘Holie Well’  enclosed in ‘rich masonry’  outside  the new conservatory. These plans were amalgamated and amended after Repton’s death but still bear the hallmarks of his ideas.

He added a few lines of poetry by the Honorable Mrs Erskine…

“The Close clipt box, th’ embroider’d bed

In rows and formal order laid,

And shap’d like graves (for mindful still

Of their last end, the church  doth will

E’en in their joys her sons should be

Pensive in very gaiety.”

The Armorial Garden and Monks Barn, Ashridge House. © Chris Reynolds & licensed for reuse under Creative Commons Licence

The Armorial Garden and Monks Barn, Ashridge House. © Chris Reynolds & licensed for reuse under Creative Commons Licence

The Grotto © Rob Farrow and licensed for reuse under Creative Commons Licence.

The Grotto
© Rob Farrow and licensed for reuse under Creative Commons Licence.

Another ‘retrospective’ feature was a new grotto.  Built of local Hertfordshire puddingstone, it stood on the site  of an old pool, and Repton designed a souterrain or  subterranean  approach tunnel constructed on an iron framework and with walls lined with flint.

The path to the souterrain and grotto © Chris Reynolds and licensed for reuse under Creative Commons Licence.

The path to the souterrain and grotto © Chris Reynolds and licensed for reuse under Creative Commons Licence.

The grotto and tunnel with its crumbling iron structure are now sadly in poor repair and have been closed off.  The owners  the Ashridge [Bonar Law Memorial] Trust are hoping to raise the funds for  restoration, so if you have a spare £150,000 [or more!] let  them know!

 

 

 

 

0233

 

The other famous Repton feature is his Rosary, sometimes called the Rosarium. This was to have been a formal arcaded structure around a circular basin with its fountain supplied by the ‘Holie Well’.  The inner rose beds may well, like parts of the Monk’s Garden, be coffin shaped as part of Repton’s tribute to the site’s ecclesiastical history.

The Rose Garden taken by Geofrrey Bingley in 1891 Leeds University Digital Library

The Rose Garden taken by Geofrrey Bingley in 1891 Leeds University Digital Library

It appears to have been built to an amended design: Wyatville planted a yew hedge instead of trellis and the linking sections  are straight rather than arched. The eight radiating beds and  fountain were restored in 1998, and the roses were replanted in 2009.

Further restoration is planned by the Balfour Trust.  The Rose Garden can be seen here in  June 1891 in one of a fascinating series of photos of Ashridge taken by Godfrey Bingley, a Yorkshire industrialist and keen traveller and photographer whose vast collection of glass slides is in the process of being digitized by Leeds University Library.

For more information see:

http://library.leeds.ac.uk/features/349/article/77/godfrey_bingley

EPW021336

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There were considerable  alterations and additions to the gardens at Ashridge during the 19thc but nothing which detracted from Repton’s overall vision for the site.  This aerial photograph taken in 1928 shows the house and immediate parkland in the year the estate was broken up and sold.  [Part of the circular rosary can be seen centre right] Despite that, Repton’s work at Ashridge  is still relatively intact and much of it has been restored over the past few years by the Ashridge Trust which runs the house and estate as a prestigious business school.    The addition of new buildings at Ashridge over recent years has also enabled them to develop more contemporary gardens  to continue Repton’s eclectic approach.  A copy of their restoration plans can be downloaded at:

Click to access ConservationPlan_v2_singlepages.pdf

There is more about Ashridge, Repton’s ‘Garden of Gardens’ on our database at:

http://www.parksandgardens.org/places-and-people/site/161/summary

Repton’s “Fragments ” can be read and downloaded at:

http://digicoll.library.wisc.edu/cgi-bin/DLDecArts/DLDecArts-idx?id=DLDecArts.ReptonFragments

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Humphry Repton

 

Humphry Repton from the frontispiece of his Observations on the theory and practice of landscape gardening, 1803

Humphry Repton from the frontispiece of his Observations on the theory and practice of landscape gardening, 1803

I’ve been teaching a course on 18thc garden history this term and finished with a class about Humphry Repton who was born in 1752 and died in 1818.  If I’m honest I’d never really given him a great deal of thought –  he’s not my period- as historians tend to say when stumped for something to say-  but there was roomful of people waiting to hear about him and so I looked him up on our database…

http://www.parksandgardens.org/places-and-people/person/1129

…and then sat down to read Stephen Daniel’s biography of him in preparation.  Within a short while I was hooked, partly because of Repton and partly because of the quality of Stephen Daniel’s writing and the book’s copious illustrations.  [Humphry Repton: Landscape Gardening and the Geography of Georgian England,  Yale UP, 1999].

How could you not get intrigued by someone  who drew this  view from his own house which most of us would find fairly idyllic,  but then “improved” it by annexing the village green and planting roses!

The view from Repton's cottage at Hare Street from Fragments on the theory and practice of landscape gardening, 1816

The view from Repton’s cottage at Hare Street from Fragments on the theory and practice of landscape gardening, 1816

The improved view!

The improved view!

detail from Catton Park with Norwich in the Distance, 1788. Norfolk Museum Service

detail from Repton’s Catton Park with Norwich in the Distance, 1788. Norfolk Museum Service

Repton was clearly something of a character. He was a bit of a social climber – one commentator even called him ‘oleaginous’ – and he loved nothing more than mixing with his grander clients, and looking down on his inferiors.  In 1788, hard up and in “dread of poverty”  he turned one of his hobbies, sketching, into a new and profitable career as a landscape gardener to the wealthy.  He used that description on his business card, and indeed he was  the first person to call himself that, although the title must almost have been accidental since he was later to write “it ought rather to be called picture gardening”.  Charging 5 guineas a day for consultations, although it did not make him rich, soon put him “in a state of ease and comparative affluence”.

DSCF9752

Humphry Repton’s trade card

In his early career he followed very much in the footsteps of Capability Brown, whose drawings and other working documents he was given by Henry Holland, Brown’s son-in-law.  He designed Brown-like parks with clumps of trees, perimeter belts and serpentine drives and walks.

The Entrance Lodge at Blaise Castle, nr Bristol from Observations on the theory and practice of landscape gardening, 1803

The Entrance Lodge at Blaise Castle, nr Bristol from Observations on the theory and practice of landscape gardening, 1803

The Cottage at Blaise Castle from Observations on the theory and practice of landscape gardening, 1803

The Cottage at Blaise Castle from Observations on the theory and practice of landscape gardening, 1803

By mid-career he was moving  away from Brown’s expansive landscape to a much “wilder” picturesque style, and using gothic architecture for buildings rather than the classical orders.

0348Finally,  towards the end of his career, although he continued to worked mainly in a folksy mock-mediaeval/Tudor way, [as in the workhouse he designed for the parish where his son was the rector] he surprised everyone, including I suspect himself, by branching out into the exotic. This was such an interesting and unexpected departure for the grand old man of his profession that I plan to talk about it in another post shortly.

Design for a villa nera Bristol, Observations on the theory and practice of landscape gardening, 1803

Design for a villa near Bristol, Observations on the theory and practice of landscape gardening, 1803

Unlike earlier great designers Repton  often had to  work on a much smaller scale, creating “grand gardens” around the villas and smaller country houses of  the nouveaux riches of late Georgian/Regency England. As anyone who designs gardens will tell you, smaller is always harder.  He hated it – but not because it his attention to detail has to be much more assiduous. It was  because he despised “upstart wealth tramping over all I have been accustomed to look up to with respect.”

The changes in his approach can be most easily seen in his famous Red Books.  These were meticulously detailed, discussing his suggested ‘improvements’ for the garden, park and house.

The title page for Ferney Hall, Pierrepoint Morgan Library

The title page for Ferney Hall, Pierrepoint Morgan Library

The elegant copperplate text was accompanied a number of sketches, often by Repton himself, which will he said, “better serve to elucidate my opinion than mere words”.

The view from the drawing room window before improvements

The view from the drawing room window before improvements, Pierrepoint Morgan Library

On first sight each sketch showed the site before Repton’s proposed improvements, but on closer inspection there was a flap or a slide of paper which when opened revealed how the site would look after the work was carried out.

The view from the darwing room window after Repton's improvements

The view from the darwing room window after Repton’s improvements

It was a simple theatrical technique but it was effective in conveying his ideas.  His changes may, in many cases, have been relatively simple – such as removing a fence, or thinning an overgrown shrubbery , but he had a good eye for creating or catching a view, introducing surprise, and providing variety in his gardens and landscapes.

Brandsbury before improvement, from Sketches and hints on landscape gardening, 1794

Brandsbury before improvement, from Sketches and hints on landscape gardening, 1794

Bransdbury after 'improvemnt' from Sketches and hints on landscape gardening, 1794

Bransdbury after ‘improvement’ from Sketches and hints on landscape gardening, 1794

Given his sense of humour and his love of theatre I doubt he’d have been too upset by critics who called his worked not “rural improvement but rural pantomime”  which showed his “tinsel kind of talent”.  Indeed he used humour in at least one of his red books, as  to show what would happen to clients who were foolish enough to choose another designer over him.

View from the house in its present character. The Red Book for Babworth from Stephen Daniel's Humphry Repton, p.13

View from the house in its present character. The Red Book for Babworth, 1792,  from Stephen Daniel’s Humphry Repton, p.13

 

The same view "altered according to 'Despotic FASHION', The Red Book for Babworth, 1792, from Stephen Daniel's Humphry Repton, p.13

The same view “altered according to ‘Despotic FASHION’, The Red Book for Babworth, 1792, from Stephen Daniel’s Humphry Repton, p.13

He would probably have been much more concerned that, despite being a good advertisement for his ideas, the Red Books did not always translate into commissions and many of the more than 400 red books he produced were never carried out.

View from the house at Tatton, showing the manner of connecting the two waters; and also the effect of the net fence as a false scale which lessens the sense of the near water. from Sketches and hints on landscape gardening 1794

View from the house at Tatton, showing the manner of connecting the two waters; and also the effect of the net fence as a false scale which lessens the sense of the near water. from Sketches and hints on landscape gardening 1794

Of course gardens are ephemeral and we learn most about Repton not from his surviving landscapes and gardens but from his extensive writings, which are usually extremely well illustrated with engravings of his own sketches.  Two of his Red Books, for Hatchlands and Ferney Hall , are available online at the Pierrepoint Morgan Library, and three of his most important books can be had as free downloads courtesy of the University of Wisconsin Digital Library for the Decorative Arts and Material Culture [see links below] and are easy to read – or at least to glance through to discover hs views, and  the wide range and scope of his style.

and the same view after 'improvement', from Sketches and hints on landscape gardening , 1794

and the same view after ‘improvement’, from Sketches and hints on landscape gardening , 1794

The Red Books are at:

http://www.themorgan.org/collections/works/repton/redbook.asp?id=FerneyHall

http://www.themorgan.org/collections/works/repton/redbook.asp?id=Hatchlands

And Repton’s books are at:

Sketches and hints on landscape gardening, 1794 can be found at:

http://digicoll.library.wisc.edu/cgi-bin/DLDecArts/DLDecArts-idx?type=header&id=DLDecArts.ReptonSketches&isize=M

Observations on the theory and practice of landscape gardening, 1803 can be found at:

http://digicoll.library.wisc.edu/cgi-bin/DLDecArts/DLDecArts-idx?type=header&id=DLDecArts.ReptonObservations&isize=M

Fragments on the theory and practice of landscape gardening, 1816

http://digicoll.library.wisc.edu/cgi-bin/DLDecArts/DLDecArts-idx?type=header&id=DLDecArts.ReptonFragments&isize=

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from Fragments on the theory and practice of landscape gardening, 1816

from Fragments on the theory and practice of landscape gardening, 1816

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A Surprise at Southend 3….

Just to prove that garden history doesn’t always have to be about stately homes, statues of Queen Victoria or 18thc planting schemes,  the real surprise at Southend was nestling in the undergrowth at the foot of the cliffs.  Don’t read any further if you’re a purist or a snob!

Some of the remnants of Never Never Land https://twitter.com/YourSouthend/status/253867636545445889

Some of the remnants of Never Never Land
https://twitter.com/YourSouthend/status/253867636545445889

I spotted  the remains of what appeared to be a series of concrete castles and other bizarre structures that one might find on a mini-golf course.  perhaps that’s all it was, although it would be a strange golf course where you had to try to putt on a steep slope.   Then  I thought putting my garden history hat on, perhaps it was a  miniature village or ‘fairy’ garden.  I was getting closer because once I’d had the chance to do some research I discovered it was indeed something like that – a Never Never Land, once the pride and joy of Southend Council but now closed, abandoned and largely dismantled.

Reproduced by permission of English Heritage.NMR Reference Number: PC08947

Reproduced by permission of English Heritage.NMR
Reference Number: PC08947

What is it about Peter Pan, Tinkerbelle, Captain Hook and the rest of Barrie’s characters that attracted, and indeed still attracts us all?  Barrie’s imaginary world of  Never Never Land first appeared as a stage play in 1904, and he probably derived the name from a contemporary description of the wildest north Australian outback.  But he didn’t stick to it and when  the script became a book his fantasy world became simply Neverland.

A view of figures in the Merry Dell Reproduced by permission of English Heritage.NMR Reference Number: PC08825

A view of figures in the Merry Dell
Reproduced by permission of English Heritage.NMR
Reference Number: PC08825

The most famous thing based on the Peter Pan legend is probably  the statue in Kensington Gardens which Barrie commissioned himself in 1902 following the success of the play, and which was erected in the park as early as 1912.

The creator of Peter Pan, J.M. Barrie, commissioned Sir George Frampton to build the statue in 1902. It was erected in Kensington Gardens in 1912 © Royal Parks

The creator of Peter Pan, J.M. Barrie, commissioned Sir George Frampton to build the statue in 1902. It was erected in Kensington Gardens in 1912 © Royal Parks

This led to a whole Peter Pan and other fairy-related  ‘industry’ there, including  the Elfin Oak designed by Ivor Innes in 1930 and which is now a Grade II listed structure.

The Elfin Oak is a sculpture made from the hollow trunk of an oak tree that is carved with figures of fairies, elves and animals. - © Royal Parks

The Elfin Oak is a sculpture made from the hollow trunk of an oak tree that is carved with figures of fairies, elves and animals. – © Royal Parks

The Princess Diana Memorial Playground © Royal Parks

The Princess Diana Memorial Playground © Royal Parks

and the Princess Diana Memorial Playground which opened in June 2000 which features a large wooden  pirate ship, and a beach set against a lush backdrop of  trees and plants.

Now where do you go to research the origins and history of something unusual like Never-Never land? Luckily there’s a very good local history website – Southend Timeline – which has some basic information, and a websearch also revealed some memories of people visiting or working there. But nothing about who came up with the idea or any account of how it operated and how it developed.

There is no doubt that Never Never Land caught the holiday making public’s imagination.  After it opened in 1935 it soon became popular, and by the 1950s people queued along the seafront for hours to get in.   Apart from the castles, waterfalls  mountains and caves and  it featured nighttime illuminations and a model railway as well as a host of imaginary creatures including fire-breathing dragons.

But, as tastes changed and more ‘exciting’ attractions became available so the crowds disappeared and in 1972 the gardens closed. Most of the exhibits were ripped out and the gardens returned to ordinary use with just a few almost indestructible miniature ruins  left in the bushes.1000x1000

A rival attraction picked up on the same theme.  Just down the road Peter Pan’s Playground opened in 1976 complete with a boating lake and fairground attractions.

Boating Lake at Peter Pan's Playground in 1960 from the collection of Antony Ewart Smith (1927-1994) http://www.oldukphotos.com/essex_southend_on_sea3.htm

Boating Lake at Peter Pan’s Playground in 1960
from the collection of Antony Ewart Smith (1927-1994)
http://www.oldukphotos.com/essex_southend_on_sea3.htm

This opened on the site of another highly unusual garden – a seaside sunken one – which might explain the photo below taken during the 1953 floods.

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Photograph of Peter Pan’s Playground, in the 1953 floods (D/Z 35/15) (Photo: Southend Standard).

Photograph of Peter Pan’s Playground, in the 1953 floods . Essex Rcord Office (D/Z 35/15) (Photo: Southend Standard).

There was an attempt to revive Never-Never Land with more hi-tech attractions in the late 1980s but despite all  best efforts it closed in 2000.   The on-line archives of the local paper, the Southend Echo only go back as far as to the late 1990s but it’s possible to trace the story of its demise through its columns.

A couple of episodes are quite humorous. There were  problems caused by starling droppings which made the paths too slippery and even turned Snow White’s cottage into “a no-go area”  despite cutting down large numbers of trees to stop the birds roosting.

Vandalism was a constant problem and there even was  a fire in the fairy castle. Reporting it the Echo quotes fire officer Rudy Jackson: “We found a window had been smashed and a fire started in the first floor of the castle. We broke in through a trap door and put the blaze out. It was not a really big fire but the castle is built of fibre-glass so the smoke was quite acrid. Whoever started it broke an outside window and set light to the corner of the castle inside. There is quite a lot of internal damage but the castle is still standing.”

Despite investing in new models and systems   the  numbers of paying visitors continued to decline sharply and made the whole venture unviable. A sad end to a once thriving attraction particularly as no-one seems to know what to do with the remnants.  There was even  an attempt to organise a Facebook campaign to re-instate it.

Meanwhile the rival Peter Pan park morphed into Peter Pan’s Adventure Island, and then recognising  the diminishing allure of pirates and fairies to the current generation of young people, simply Adventure Island. Claiming to be the country’s No.1 free admission amusement park it is full of rollercoasters as well as more sedate rides and attractions – and tropical looking plants – it’s a far cry from Barrie but it has captured the market so that even on a blustery February afternoon there was a long long queue of people waiting to get inside.

Taken from an interview with Philip Miller, owner of Adventure Island in gforce, the newsletter of UK theme parks © http://www.gforcemag.com

Taken from an interview with Philip Miller, owner of Adventure Island in gforce, the newsletter of UK theme parks © http://www.gforcemag.com

I’d love to know more about any and all of this. So if you know the history of Never-Never Land or know someone who does then get in touch and I’ll be delighted to share it with other readers of the blog.

For further information about Southend in general and Never Never Land in particular see:                       http://www.southendtimeline.com  and   http://www.echo-news.co.uk

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