BEAUTIFUL BRITAIN: Romance and Reason

I’m a hoarder and always have been. I’ve also been interested in history all my life and even as a child I collected anything and everything in the hope that one day it would come in ‘useful’.  Having written last month  that I loved decay in buildings and gardens, I remembered that when I was about 10 or 11 I’d gone to a jumble sale and  bought a collection of Victorian illustrations from a subscription series called  “Beautiful Britain” because it contained a photograph of the garden in the ruins of the mediaeval Farnham Castle, which was a few hundred yards from where I grew up.  Scan 4 (1) And for the last 50 years or so its been waiting for its time to be useful.  I finally remembered it as  I was writing  and eventually I tracked the folder down to a dusty cardboard box in my in-laws attic and glanced through the contents for the first time in at least a decade.  And I was quite surprised.

The garden on top of the keep, Farnham Castle, Surrey in c.1890

The garden on top of the keep, Farnham Castle, Surrey from ‘Beautiful Britain’, 1894

The photo of the garden was there, looking even more extraordinary than I remembered it.   That’s probably because I’d never looked at it, or any of the other pictures in the collection, with the eyes of a garden historian before.  A couple of things struck me immediately as I looked through the rest of the folder. Firstly our ancestors were clearly sometimes happy to allow historic buildings  and gardens  to decay but  still thought them beautiful because they were ‘romantic’. And secondly ivy was ubiquitous and allowed to grow almost anywhere it chose.   Neither of these would really be acceptable today.  Indeed one only has to look at  recent photos of the same place to see how things have changed.  We have become a national of obsessive heritage preservers and  tidiers.

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The same space on top of the keep at Farnham Castle © Richard Croft &  licensed for reuse under Creative Commons Licence. http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2027483

Is that a bad thing? Of course not…well not entirely.  Our built heritage is precious and deserves our respect, care and attention. So too does our more  ephemeral garden heritage.  But this attitude is comparatively recent, indeed in the case of gardens very recent.

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The old palace of Woodstock.
Reproduced by permission of English Heritage
NMR Reference Number: CC50/00455

Although antiquarians like John Leland, William Camden and William Dugdale had begun to investigate and write about antiquities in the 16th and 17th centuries, there was no sense in the ‘old’ was really considered of particular value. Buildings were demolished  and gardens uprooted at will.

It was Sir John Vanbrugh who made the first serious attempt to preserve an old building for its own sake, not for living in but for its landscape value.  As the architect of the new Blenheim Palace, the gift of a grateful nation to the Duke of Marlborough for his victories over Louis XIV,  Vanbrugh wrote to the Duchess  suggesting that the former royal palace of Woodstock, which stood in the park should be preserved rather than demolished.  ‘It wou’d make One of the Most Agreable Objects that the best of Landskip Painters can invent. And if on the Contrary this Building is taken away; there then remains nothing but an Irregular, Ragged Ungovernable Hill, the deformitys of which are not be cured but by a Vast Expence.’    Unfortunately Vanbrugh lost the argument and the Duchess swept the ruins away.

Old Wardour Castle by Nathaniel Buck

Old Wardour Castle by Samuel & Nathaniel Buck, 1732

However, during the 18thc things began to change. Antiquarianism became an accepted pursuit for a gentleman, and coupled with a growing taste for topographical and landscape painting and prints, it encouraged the study of ancient monuments and mediaeval buildings and their settings.  It is difficult to judge the extent of appreciation for their historical value but they were certainly valued for their visual attraction. Ruins, classical and gothic, both old and contrived, appeared in the gardens of the elite.   At Wardour, for example, the ruins of the old castle were left as a picturesque eye-catcher in the distant landscape for the new house built a mile away.

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Rievaulx Abbey seen from Rievaulx Terrace © Steve Fareham & licensed for reuse under Creative Commons Licence. http://www.geograph.org.uk/reuse.php?id=1445171

Similarly at Rievaulx a new terrace high above the river valley spectacularly incorporates the old abbey ruins into the wider landscape of Duncombe Park.

And where they didn’t exist they could, as at Painshill, easily be created.  The love of the old was however largely something indulged in only by the elite.

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The Abbey, a sham ruin at Painshill © David Marsh 2008

Several things change in the early 19thc, partly inspired  by Walter Scott’s series of Waverley novels which began in 1814. Scott  began a new category of writing – historical fiction – and his stories together with those of slightly later writers like Harrison Ainsworth and Bulwer Lytton took hold of the public imagination and spread a love of history and the past amongst their readers.  They encouraged the romantic notion of “Old England” which altered attitudes and perceptions to our ‘national story’ and what we would now call our ‘national heritage’.

Kenilworth Castle from 'Beautiful Britain', 1894

Kenilworth Castle from ‘Beautiful Britain’, 1894

Simon Thurley points out in his recent book Men from the Ministry that Scott’s novels made the past tangible and realistic in a way previously unknown to a much wider audience. The sites he described like the castle at Ashby de la Zouche, the scene of the tournament in Ivanhoe [1819]  became places of pilgrimage.  Kenilworth Castle, the scene of the passionate but secret romance between Robert Dudley and Amy Robsart, was soon overrun with visitors,  but this led to much better care of its fabric and to proper antiquarian study.

As travel became easier with the advent of the railways, travel books and tourist guides began to appear, and even for those who couldn’t travel to see the sights themselves  there were not just books describing them but cheap magazines with illustrations. These were detailed, informative and peopled with evocative costumed figures. Although they mainly covered interiors they also included exteriors of famous places and even a few gardens. This opened up new romantic worlds to readers. But it also opened up the idea of a national history which was the birthright of all.  Romantic history became patriotic.

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The gardens of Levens Hall from Joseph Nash, The Mansions of England in the Olden Times, 1849

From there it was short step to Ruskin’s idea of  important historical monuments and buildings being held not just by their owners but by the whole nation in a kind of trusteeship.  In The Seven Lamps of Wisdom [1849] he argued that the buildings of the past did not belong to the current generation. ‘We have no right whatever to touch them. They are not ours. They belong partly to those who built them and partly to all generations of mankind who are to follow us.’

So what does that mean to us. We have accepted more than the idea of trusteeship. As a nation we ‘own’ a large number of historic houses and gardens, whether through English Heritage, or at slightly arms-length through the Royal Parks and Royal Palaces or the National Trust, and any number of smaller organisations, charitable trusts and volunteer groups. As a country we have also imposed restrictions on what the owners of such properties in private hands can do with them.  But perhaps at a cost.

To be continued in the next post…..

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Farnham Castle © http://www.Hoteldevie.com

 

For more information see

Farnham Castle & Park:

http://www.parksandgardens.org/places-and-people/site/4292/history Farnham Park

http://www.english-heritage.org.uk/daysout/properties/farnham-castle-keep/

Simon Thurley, Men from the Ministry [London: Yale University Press, 2013]

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“Farnham Castle, Surry” from Francis Grose’s Antiquities of England and Wales, 1786

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Snowdrop Days

I saw my first snowdrops of the season last week, pushing their way through the semi-liquid mud in a friend’s garden. It almost looked as if it needed swimming lessons. But it set me thinking how archetypally English we take them to be. Except of course they’re not: like so much else in our garden they’re a foreign invader.

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from John Gerard’s The Herball or Generall Historie of Plantes, 1597
Image courtesy of Early English Books Online

Native to shady woodland across Europe from the Pyrenees to Turkey and Ukraine, no-one knows how or when they arrived in Britain but it must have been well before the end of the 17thc because they appear in John Gerard’s Herbal of 1597. They are included along with leucojums under the heading of “Bulbed Stock Gilloflowers”, and illustrated as the “Timely flowring Bulbus violet”.   While Gerard’s name and classification, which is based on the ancient Greek writer, Theophrastus might strike us as a bit odd,  his written description is accurate.

“The first of these Bulbus violets riseth foorth of the ground with two small leaves, flat and crested, of an overworne greene colour: among which riseth up a smal and tender stalke, of two hands high; at the top whereof commeth forth of a skinnie hood, a small white flower of the bignesse of a violet, compact of six leaves, three bigger and three lesser, tipped at the points with a light greene: the smaller leaves are not so white as the outermost great leaves, but tipped with greee as the others be. The whole flower hangeth downe his heda by reason of the weake foote stalke whereon it groweth. The roote is small, white and bulbose.”

Gerard also tells us that “our London gardens have taken possession of them all these many years”, and that “they are maintained and cherished in gardens for the beautie and rarenesse of the flowers, and the sweetenes of their smell.”   That cherishing continues. Although many plants have their fan clubs, indeed many have specialist groups dedicated to their cultivation, research and promotion, snowdrops [Galanthus nivalis]seem to have attracted a more enthusiastic bunch of admirers than most: Galanthophiles.

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Galanthus nivalis Magnet © Galanthus.co.uk

The term was used [if not coined] by E.A.Bowles the garden writer and plantsman, although snowdrop hybridizing and collecting was well under way in the mid-19thc. The most famous snowdrop breeder – nicknamed the snowdrop king -with over 100 varieties to his name [including Magnet], was James Allen of Shepton Mallet where the local horticultural society is keen to rekindle his enthusiasm and passion for the flower in their town.

For further information see:

http://www.sheptonhortsoc.org.uk/snowdrop-project

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Bennington Lordship © David Marsh

Galanthophile efforts  to convert the rest of us have had a lot of success.  I can remember [at least I think I can] when a snowdrop day was quite an unusual occasion, taking place in just a few gardens: Bennington Lordship, Hodsock Priory, Colesbourne Park spring to mind and all of which continue to have wonderful displays.

But nowadays everyone is at it.

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Snowdrops at Fountains Abbey © Ian Capper & licensed for reuse under Creative Commons Licence

There are dozens, if not hundreds, of gardens and snowpdrop-related events to choose from. The National Gardens Scheme alone lists 71 gardens open in February, many of which specifically mention snowdrops as one of their attractions and are opening specially. They include many historic parks and gardens that are not normally open to the public including East Lambrook Manor nr Taunton, [the garden created by Marjorie Fish], Bramdean House, nr Winchester and Welford Park, nr Newbury.

And then of course there are the gardens that do open on a regular basis many of which have been widening their seasons of interest by mass plantings of snowdrops , often in dozens of varieties.

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Snowdrops at Welford Park, nr Newbury © Len Williams & licensed for reuse under Creative Commons Licence geograph-2822851

So now the choice of places to see “The Snow-drop, who, in habit white and plain, Comes on the Herald of fair Flora’s train”  [Charles Churchill, Gotham 1764] is almost endless.  From Colebsourne Park in Gloucestershire to Cambo in Fife ,  from Easton Walled Garden to Austwick Park, nr Settle, and from Fountains  to Plas yn Rhiw or  wherever else you are in the country there will be somewhere nearby to go and indulge – or maybe acquire – the passion to become a galanthophile too!

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Snowdrop Galanthus x allenii is possibly a wild hybrid from the Caucasus. It was found in Shepton Mallet, the Somerset garden of James Allen (hence the name), in Victorian times and has been cultivated ever since
© Natural History Museum

Further information about some of the many gardens with good snowdrop displays can be can be found at the National Gardens Scheme and the Royal Horticultural Society:

Home

http://www.rhs.org.uk/Gardens/RHS-Partner-Gardens/Features/Days-out-for-snowdrop-lovers

You might also be interested in reading about snowdrops on the blog of the Galloping Gardener:

http://thegallopinggardener.blogspot.co.uk/2013/02/in-search-of-snowdrops-where-to-find.html

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Snowdrops at Easton Walled Garden, Lincolnshire © Copyright Brian Green & licensed for reuse under Creative Commons Licence

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Copped Hall revisited

The weather yesterday was wonderful so I decided to take my own advice [for a change] and went for a winter walk.  And having written recently about Copped Hall discovered that it had one its monthly open days I set off to the edge of Epping Forest to see how things had changed over the past nearly ten years.  I am so glad that I did.

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The rear elevation showing the remains of the double staircase to the first floor terrace © David marsh

The exterior looks very much as it did, – extremely shabby chic might be a fair description – but inside a transformation has taken place.  The main part of the mansion has been re-roofed, [even if only temporarily in part] the walls are drying out, floors and staircases have been installed and there is even an impressive single flight of marble steps starting to climb up from the hall to replace those smashed up in the 1950s.

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Stripped Georgian brickwork in the first floor saloon © David Marsh

The entire first floor is now open, stripped back to bare brickwork revealing the elegant design. There are bits and pieces of furniture, photographs, wall sconces and chandeliers and faux door frames to complete the picture.  Even the vaulted cellars are worth visiting – and at one point you can see the Georgian damp proofing system – a sunken wall which runs parallel to the foundations but about half a metre away with a void between it and the house.

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A faux Georgian doorway adds a touch of scale in the largest first floor room © David Marsh

Obviously January is not the best time to see the garden, and looking out of the windows on to the ruins of the Italianate garden it looked as if little had happened anyway. How wrong can you be – because away from the house there was plenty going on.

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The topiary nursery in the kitchen garden © David Marsh

The massive walled garden was alive with people and plants, and although at first glance, the complex of glasshouses looked much as it did 10 years ago, that was deceptive and considerable renovation has taken place.

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The Orchard House waiting for a bit more sponsorship © David Marsh

The walls were covered with trained fruit trees, there was an impressive soft fruit patch and lots of veg being grown in rectangular beds cut into the grass. There was also an impressive array of box and yew in the early stages of topiarization.  There were roofless glasshouses full of trays and trays of plants being propagated. Another glasshouse – the Orchard House – was being disassembled for work to start as soon as sufficient money has been raised. And there were volunteers laying paths, potting up plants, clearing, tidying and planning their next moves.  The way down to the kitchen garden has also been planted up with a large number of shrubs,particularly camellias.

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The kitchen garden gates and  a small part of the long herbaceous border © David Marsh

One of the outer walls of the kitchen garden now boasts a magnificent herbaceous border. Although our guide kept apologizing for the lack of flowers and colour, it was still looking pretty good despite everything the weather could throw at it. And all apparently the work of one volunteer.

The Victorian wing of the house and the outbuildings survived the fire better than the main mansion.  The racquets court has been converted into a very spacious and airy refreshment room offering soup & excellent home-made cakes, and other ancillary buildings have been converted to make six houses and flats set round a pretty courtyard.

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The last standing relic of the Tudor mansion © David marsh

Elsewhere in the grounds the last remnants of the massive 103 roomed Tudor mansion stood rather forlornly amid the mud.

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The sunken garden © David Marsh

When it was demolished in the 18thc the bricks were used to build the new Hall and the cellars  were later filled with massive blocks of stone and turned into a sunken rock garden.The flooded garden might have been a better title – but there was still a volunteer bravely battling away and weeding.

Nearby excavations are taking place hoping to provide clear evidence of the layout of the 17th century formal gardens for this earlier house.

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The reamins of the Victorian conservatory © David Marsh

The tour of the house and grounds took well over two hours and could easily have taken longer. The whole site was buzzing with volunteers – guides, builders, caterers and gardeners and it was very clear that something special going on here.Work is extremely costly [take a look at this month’s wish list on their website] and will probably be continuous for the next 50 years but perhaps, in many ways, the end – a fully restored Georgian house and gardens that reflect the site’s historic framework – is less important than the means. Copped Hall has found a new purpose and is once again a house at the centre of a community.

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The view over the kitchen garden © David Marsh

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Copped Hall

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The Great Fire at Castle Howard, 9th November 1940 © Castle Howard

I love decay. Houses and gardens are not necessarily meant to last forever – whatever their creators might think – and every so often decisions have to be made about whether to preserve,  restore, recreate or perhaps just to allow to slide gently into oblivion.   Sometimes of course the reason for ruin is sudden and unexpected.  Fire has probably caused as much damage to our heritage as greed or neglect.  A gutted house can evoke many emotions and reactions – and raises many questions. Sometimes as at Castle Howard or Uppark, what is at stake is so important historically or architecturally that it is difficult not to begin rebuilding immediately.

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Witley Court © English Heritage

Elsewhere the destruction is too complete, and the money, need or concern is lacking. That’s not always a disaster: Witley Court in Worcestershire is now an elegant and evocative ruin. But in what one might call ‘lesser’ houses the choice is not so obvious.

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Copped Hall in 2004 © David Marsh

One such house is Copped Hall, a mid-Georgian house, in Essex.  The Palladian mansion was built between 1752 and 1758 for John Conyers as a replacement for an earlier Elizabethan house. It was later ‘improved’ by James Wyatt and Capability Brown probably helped redesign the gardens.   Bought in 1867 by a railway magnate he and his family extended the house several times and in 1887  commissioned Charles Eamer Kempe, better known as a designer of stained glass, to build a great conservatory, and make an extensive new  garden  to the west of the mansion, with temples, grand flights of steps, a parterre, gates, fountains and statuary.

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The ruins of Charles Eamer Kempe’s Italianate garden © David Marsh

In its heyday the gardens required no less than 31 gardeners to look after them.  Sadly in 1917 there was a massive fire which burned out the main 18thc block, and although the gardens continued to be maintained the house was never rebuilt.  The estate was sold off in 1952, and whatever remained of value remained inside the ruin and the gardens was removed and sold.

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© Copped Hall Trust

The original entry gates and railings are thought to have ended up in America – the gates themselves and the gateposts have already turned up in Washington – but there is no trace of the obelisks or railings. If you fancy yourself as an amateur sleuth, then a reward of $1,000 is on offer for anyone who can track down them down.

The splendid conservatory or Wintergarden was dynamited as late 1960. As a final blow the M25 was driven through a corner of the grounds, although luckily not so close as to be over-intrusive.  Nevertheless total demolition, probably followed by housing development seemed the likely outcome.

Yet that was not to be. From 1986-1995 a campaign was successfully fought by a committee comprised of representatives of local conservation societies against repeated large-scale aggressive development proposals for the mansion and parkland. The first success came in  1992 when the parkland was bought by the Conservators of Epping Forest (part of the Corporation of London). Three years later, in 1995, the vandalised and overgrown  mansion, outbuildings and gardens were acquired by the Copped Hall Trust, and in 1999 they were also able to acquire  the 4 acre kitchen garden.

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The kitchen garden in 2004 © David Marsh

The task facing them must have been daunting, to put it mildly.  But with the aid of a large Friends group the Trust has made enormous progress towards it aim of careful restoration of  the buildings and gardens and putting them  to educational, cultural  and community use.

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The mansion in 2004 © David Marsh

Essential structural repairs and work to the roof and flooring have been followed by restoration of the stables and racquets court and one of the glasshouses in the now once again very productive kitchen garden.  Much of the garden has been cleared of invasive vegetation, replacement trees have been planted and the lawns re-seeded.

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The unrestored kitchen garden 2004 © David Marsh

There are regular opportunities to visit the gardens or take a guided walk around the mansion and gardens and see progress for yourself.  And of course, when you’ve finished almost as good, you can enjoy some tea and homemade cake and contemplate the hard work that the Trust and its volunteers have put in. It might even convince you to sign up to give Copped Hall a hand yourself!

Further information about Copped Hall can be found at

http://www.coppedhalltrust.org.uk

and http://www.parksandgardens.org/places-and-people/site/920

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architectural fragments © David Marsh

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A tour of one of the unrestored glasshouses in 2004 © David Marsh

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Croome Park

This gallery contains 9 photos.

Winter walks seem to be one of the main topics in the garden-related press at the moment – although most of them will have been written before the weather prevented most of us from going anywhere!  The Daily Telegraph, for … Continue reading

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