Sissinghurst: The Shock of the Old

The very word Sissinghurst conjures up the glories of the English garden.  It must be the most  photographed and written about garden in the country and it’s certainly the most popular of the National Trust’s gardens.  In fact it’s been talked about   almost since the day Harold Nicolson and Vita Sackville West bought the remains of the Tudor castle  and began their transformation. As John Sales, the former head of Gardens for the National Trust noted “no garden had greater influence in the second half of the twentieth century.”

Visitors, called “shillingses” by Vita, after the price of admission, have poured in from those earliest days and have adored it. Every known adjective extolling beauty of design, form and colour has been used to describe it.    It must be, to coin a phrase, the quintessential example of all that is best about English planting and design.  As a consequence I’ve avoided writing about it, as I do most famous sites, since I never think I’ll have anything insightful or interesting to add to the countless other rehashes of its history or descriptions of its planting.   But to tell the truth – and prepare to be shocked – its also because I don’t think I ever liked it that much.

 

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An Englishman’s Home is his Castle – or Mr Wemmick and Me

I wrote a few months about Dickens and his garden at Gad’s Hill and also about the way he uses gardens in his novels.  Today I was  just going to look at one rather quirky Dickensian character and his rather quirky garden, but as I started writing I realised Dickens had got it right once again. This character, odd though he appears at first,  is not actually that strange,  and instead of being entirely a creation of Dickens fertile imagination, I think  he is actually a reflection of a large number of us gardeners…   definitely including me.

So this post  is going to be a bit self-indulgent – with these 2 photos and others through the text as proof of that – for reasons which will be apparent by the end.

 

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The Pergola, Hampstead.

My favourite garden in London is very sadly currently out of bounds to the public because of covid19, although I have just taken advantage of the slight relaxation of the lockdown to walk around the outside.  But if I can’t get inside I can at least, as a poor substitute,  write about it.  It’s an Edwardian extravagance of the first order: a wonderful mix of the impressively grand and the elegantly romantic, and shows just what could be done with a bit of vision and a lot of money! Its also a case study in how quickly even a well-built and well-maintained garden can fall into disrepair and be threatened with destruction, but fortunately, also how with a bit more  vision and a lot of money it can once again surprise and delight the visitor.

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Lady Charlotte and “the job six times too big”

a pair of Burmese chinthes, mythical lionlike guardian figures, by Rodway Swinhoe

Last week’s post looked at the plant hunting activities of Lady Charlotte Wheeler-Cuffe who travelled around Burma between 1897 and 1921. Today’s continues her story.

In 1913 her husband Sir Otway was posted to Maymyo a small hill station 26 miles north east of Mandalay, which was the summer residence of the governor.   Here Charlotte created yet another of her own gardens from scratch, while at the same time playing the leading role  in the foundation of what was to become Burma’s  National Botanic Garden.  I think this must make her unique as I can’t think of another woman ever having been given such responsibility for a national institution.

Please let me know if I’m wrong!

Sunset over the lake in the Botanic Gardens

 

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Jungling with Lady Charlotte…

Charlotte Wheeler-Cuffe. Photo courtesy of the National Botanic Garden of Ireland.

A few years ago I spent a month in Burma, and one of the highlights of the trip was to see  the  National Botanic Gardens at Pyin Oo Lwin, way up in the hills near Mandalay.    It was rather strange to discover that neither the Burmese friends I’d gone with nor, indeed the staff we spoke to,  seemed to know much about the history of the gardens other than the little printed on the information boards,  so when I came back I decided to do some research.

I wrote that up for an article in Garden History in 2015 but in the process became very interested in one of the garden’s founders: Lady Charlotte Wheeler-Cuffe.

Don’t be taken in by her title or rather grand appearance in this photo, as she was an intrepid and immensely practical woman who spent 24 years in Burma and let very little stand in the way of her love of plants and gardening.

detail of Dendrobium crepidatum, 1902

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